Monkey Onsen UPDATED: CNN Video Clip 2/25/11

A Day at the Monkey Onsen continued...

Check out this CNN video!

A few us were interviewed by CNN while we visited the Monkey Onsen in Nagano on February 11th.

A Day in Kusatsu

The beautiful resort town of Kusatsu is located about two hours from Takasaki. My JET friend, Angela and I drove from Takasaki to Kusatsu, using the scenic slower roads. The drive was beautiful: the trees were covered in freshly fallen snow and the mountains were gorgeous snow covered peaks on the horizon. After reaching Kusatsu around lunch time, we walked around the main plaza of town. In the middle of Kusatsu is a giant natural hot spring (and you can definitely smell it!) The water is said to have healing powers for your body, washing away the toxins and helping the skin. Even though it was smelly, the water was a beautiful aqua color.

In Kusatsu, there are several onsen baths, foot baths, and restaurants. It is certainly a great weekend get-a-way place! After walking around the main plaza, we stopped at a local side street restaurant, which served delicious miso noodle soup. It was warm and hearty--perfect for a -2C day! After lunch, we drove to the indoor-outdoor onsen called Ohtaki No Yu, which is famous for its beautiful rock covered pools, waterfalls, and numerous pools to choose from. The onsen was beautiful and we stayed in the water until our hands looked like prunes! The outdoor pool was especially relaxing because it was lightly snowing the entire time that we sat in the water.

If you want to be truly relaxed, you must visit Kusatsu and sit in the onsen bath. Just a side note to foreigners: In the onsen baths, you must go naked...sorry no bathing suits! The Japanese are very proud of their onsen baths and do not believe being naked is indecent in the onsen. The Japanese seem pretty relaxed and unembarrassed by this tradition of de-robing and sitting in a pool naked in front of other people. Most of the onsens are separated by gender, so women have their own pools and men have their own side too.

When you first enter the bath, you remove your clothing and leave them in a basket. Then you walk into the shower/bath room and wash your body with soap and shampoo provided by the onsen. After washing, you can enter the hot pool and stay for as long as you like. I started with the indoor pool and moved to the outside later. The outside pool was more relaxing and pleasant because I could have a nice cold/hot balance with the temperature of the pool and the outside air temperature. There was a constant sound of running water off of the rock wall, which was pleasant too.

After experiencing the onsen, many people stay for tea or have a snack in the cafeteria if there is time. The Japanese onsen experience is A-MUST for any tourist visiting Japan!!

Monkey Onsen in Nagano: Feb 11, 2011

Today, we drove three hours to Nagano (the neighboring prefecture to Gunma) to see wild monkeys! The roads were icy and snowy and the scenery beautiful as we drove out of Gunma into the snow covered trees and mountains of Nagano. Nagano is certainly famous for its beautiful scenery and amazing skiiing...it was the host city to the 1998 Olympics, so many foreigners visit Nagano every year. I don't think I saw so many foreign tourists in one spot in Japan besides Tokyo!

As we reached Nagano, we veered off of the main highway and onto smaller roads which led us to a smaller town where we parked our car. From here, tourists must walk 1.6 km to the monkey onsen on a slippery, but beautiful snowy path. Once you arrive to the destination, you will be amazed by the site!

At the onsen, dozens of monkeys take refuge in the hotel pool for warmth and relaxation; very similar to the behavior of humans on a cold winter day. The temperature was probably around -4C...so that is why you will see me all bundled up in the photos. We stayed at the onsen taking pictures for about 1 hour. The monkeys are free to wander and walk around the humans without any fences or gates for protection. Tourists must be respectful and keep their distance; however, the monkeys do not seem frightened in the least. Many monkeys casually walked right next to me, searching for food under the snow or carrying their babies on their backs. It was so much fun to watch the monkeys interact with each other and to see how popular this place really is for tourists.

There were amateur and professional wildlife photographers gathered together at the base of the pool, taking close-up shots of the monkeys. CNN News Network was also present, interviewing tourists about their impressions of the monkeys and the onsen in general. I was asked to be interviewed since I live in Japan and I'm also from America. The reporter was interested in my impressions of the monkeys as well as the environmental issues that become ever present when humans and wild animals mingle and co-exist. It was really fun to talk to the reporter about my opinions...check out CNN in a few weeks for the interview!

Overall, the day was amazing...being surrounded by snow-covered peaks and watching the monkeys in their natural habitat was absolutely fantastic. I strongly encourage any visitor who visits Nagano, to also take a day trip to visit the monkey onsen. It is worth the 1.6 km walk!

If you want to see me and other JET English teachers on CNN News, check out this link:

Lost in Translation

What is it like living abroad in a new culture with a new language?

I'll tell you: it's fascinating, daunting, challenging, ego-leveling, spiritual, and frightening all at the same time. During the last 7 months, I have witnessed several things that I have made me question my own cultural values, helped me to understand Japan better, and even allowed me to appreciate my own background and culture even more.

Lesson #1: Driving

Japanese people are very polite in all aspects of life, including driving. It is funny for me to drive around and not be honked at for cutting people off or pulling a "US" commuter move. People here honk instead for thanking others and use their emergency flashers as a special thank you to other drivers. I really do appreciate the quiet calmness that descends upon the city despite heavy Takasaki commuter traffic in the downtown areas. It certainly makes me think twice before honking out of western frustration to be somewhere faster! ;)

Lesson #2: Family life vs. Work life

As I have learned, many Japanese people value the work place as number one priority, putting work above the personal/private matters such as family and personal holidays. It is a new idea for me to value work before family, an idea that was difficult at first to fully understand.

As I have witnessed on a daily basis in both schools, teachers will come to work, despite being sick and teach all day without complaint (first of all let me add: there really aren't substitute teachers in Japan, so if a teacher is sick, the class doesn't get taught). This idea of no back-ups for teachers was also amazing to me! Teachers should get more support here, but instead, they are left to teach even when they are feeling their lowest. The only exception I have seen is when teachers are out with the flu, since this is highly contagious. Recently, my classes at the elementary school were cancelled because half of the classes were calling in sick with influenza.

As a teacher back home, I really do appreciate the substitute program that we have for teachers. I really wish that the Japanese would integrate this into the school system so that they can have a "break"--not because they are lazy, but because this would help everyone in the long run.

Also, working in a Japanese school has been challenging. I am the only westerner in the whole school and only the other English teachers can communicate with me. After a few months, some of the other teachers worked up enough courage to say more than just "Hello" to me in english. I am also trying to learn Japanese this year, so I try to communicate on a basic level with several teachers, whether it's in the copy room, getting coffee, or during lunch break. I think it's really important to create strong connections with my colleagues; however, the language barrier at work is my main hurdle. A little goes a long way in Japan--so I will continue to speak in broken Japanese with the hope that my efforts will not go unnoticed.

Lesson #3: Anti-conflict

Working in a country that doesn't like conflict has also certainly been a true test! I am integrated into a society that doesn't believe in saying 100% of what you mean, but rather leaving out sometimes important pieces of information. This has proven challenging for me since I am from a country that values honesty and polite bluntness (meaning--get to the point and don't go in circles!) Many Japanese people prefer to keep a public face of calmness, rather than embarrass themselves in public with unnecessary emotions. I can see the validity of this approach; however, sometimes I also feel that people need to assert themselves more if they truly believe in something.

My experiences in Japan so far have been extremely rewarding and exciting, as well as challenging and eye-opening. I look forward to seeing what else comes my way!

Happy Reading! :)

Music in Japan

Dear Readers,

During my year overseas in Takasaki, Japan, I have decided to explore the world of music, both traditional and modern types. Since my arrival last August, I have experimented with various types of instruments, including: the taiko drums (played frequently at cultural festivals), I am currently learning and taking lessons from a koto master, and I have also joined the local community orchestra in Takasaki. Each music experience has allowed me to meet new people, make Japanese friends, and learn something new about music through the Japanese perspective.

The first time I attended a koto concert in August, I was mesmerized and drawn to the beautiful melodies produced by this 13 stringed instrument. If you are interested to learn more about the koto, here is some more detailed information below:

The koto (箏) is a traditional Japanese stringed musical instrument, similar to the Chinese guzheng. The koto is the national instrument of Japan.^[1] Koto are about 180 centimetres (71 in) width, and made from kiri wood (Paulownia tomentosa). They have 13 strings that are strung over 13 movable bridges along the width of the instrument.

Players can adjust the string pitches by moving these bridges before playing, and use three finger picks (on thumb, index finger, and middle finger) to pluck the strings.

The ancestor of the koto originated in its earliest form in the 5th century and was first introduced to Japan from China in the 7th and 8th century. The first known version had five strings, which eventually increased to seven strings. (It had twelve strings when it was introduced to Japan in the early Nara Period (710–784) and increased to thirteen strings). This particular instrument is known throughout Asia but in different forms: the Japanese so or koto which is a distant relative to the qin, the Korean gayageum, and the Vietnamesedan tranh. This variety of instrument came in two basic forms, a type that had bridges and those types without bridges. The type that was most known in China was the qin, similar in design to many other instruments in Asia.

Originally, when the so, or koto, was imported to Japan, the word koto was a generic term for any and all Japanese stringed instruments. Over time the definition of koto could not describe the wide variety of these stringed instruments and the names were changed. The Azuma goto or yamatogoto became the wagon, the kin no koto became the kin, and the sau no koto was changed to the so or koto.

The modern koto originates from the so, or gakuso, used in Japanese court music. It was a popular instrument among the wealthy; the instrument koto was considered a romantic one. Some literary and historical records solo pieces for koto existed centuries before sokyoku or the music of the solo koto genre was established. According to Japanese literature, the koto was used as imagery and other extra music significance. In one part of "The Tales of Genji (Genji monogatari)", Genji falls deeply in love with a mysterious woman, who he has never seen before, after he hears her playing koto from a distance.

The history of the koto, or so, in Japan, dates back to the 16th Century. At this time a Buddhist priest by the name of Kenjun (1547–1636), who lived in northern Kyūshū, began to compose for the koto, calling the style "tsukushi goto".

Perhaps the most important influence on the development of koto was Yatsuhashi Kengyo (1614–1685). He was a gifted blind musician from Kyoto who changed the limited selection of six songs to a brand new style of koto music which he called kumi uta. Yatsuhashi changed the Tsukushi goto tunings, which were based on gagaku ways of tuning; and with this change, a new style of koto was born. Yatsuhashi Kengyo is now known as the "Father of Modern Koto".

Music is transformative and spiritual. As I have witnessed, it can transcend cultural boundaries and bring people together, despite their personal backgrounds. I am excited to live in Takasaki, home of Gunma's beautiful concert hall, the daruma figure, and music (both traditional and western).